Materiali and Fibre

Seleziona i materiali e le fibre con attenzione, scegliendo quelle che possano esaltare l’estetica e unicità delle tue creazioni al massimo e che, allo stesso tempo, rispettino i principi di sostenibilità.

Per conoscere le caratteristiche dei materiali convenzionali e i progressi rispetto a materiali innovativi, ci sono molte realtà specifiche che divulgano informazioni interessanti.

• Tessile e Salute per la sicurezza e la non tossicità di prodotti e materiali.

• Eco Textile Magazine pubblicato 6 volte l’anno da MCL News & Media, la piattaforma multimediale leader per l’industria tessile e dell’abbigliamento globale.

• Textile Exchange organizzazione no-profit globale che crea leader nel settore delle fibre e dei materiali preferiti

Cotton

If you decide to use cotton, it is better to choose the organic one. Why?

– It comes from Organic Agriculture
– It is certified
– It respects the soil and the ecosystem
– It does not use pesticides or chemical agents
– It protects the safety of workers

To find your way around the various qualities offered on the market, relying on certifications and standards is a good option. Here are some of the most recognized:

GOTS: Global Organic Textile Standard is the world’s leading textile processing standard for organic fibers, including ecological and social criteria, supported by independent certifications of the entire textile supply chain.
OCS: Organic Content Standard is a voluntary international standard that establishes the requirements for third-party certifications of certified organic input and chain of custody. The goal of the OCS is to increase the production of organic agriculture.
BCI: Better Cotton Initiatives is an international consortium that aims to spread practices with a low impact on the environment and on workers for the cultivation of cotton.

About Recycled Cotton:
GRS: Global Recycled Standard is a voluntary and international standard that aims to spread the use of recycled materials by emphasizing the social and environmental treatment requirements and chemical restrictions.

Linen

Natural fibers from vegetable origin. Linen is a fiber with many positive characteristics:
• 100% eco-responsible: a real “carbon well”, each year one hectare of flax retains 3.7 tons of CO2.
• 100% Sustainable Development: flax helps maintain an economic and social fabric in rural areas. Its growth and transformation requires a large and skilled local workforce. The flax industry is committed to complying with the laws of the International Labor Office.
• 100% natural: the cultivation of flax has positive effects on the ecosystem diversity and offers a welcome environmental break for soil quality, biodiversity, and landscapes.
• Eco-Friendly
• No Irrigation
• No MGO
• Low Use of Fertilizers
• Zero Waste
• Biodegradable
• Breathable
• Thermo Regulator
• Breathable
• Thermo Regulator

Man-Made Fibers

Man-Made Fibers. Some of the most popular are:
• Viscose
• Lyocell
• Cupro
• Modal

The most reliable are FSC and PEFC certified. They are both international standards for responsible forest management.

The most important producers of these materials with a strong focus on sustainability are:
• Lenzing’s Refibra: is the first lyocell fiber made with recycled materials offered on a commercial scale.
• Re: newcell’s Circulose: it is 100% composed of cellulose textile waste instead of wood.
• Asahi Kasei’s Bemberg: is a cupro fiber produced in Japan that comes 100% from a pre-consumer residue from the processing of cotton.

Alternatives to Leather

Innovative alternative materials to leather:
• Ohoskin: bio-based alternative leather derived from cactus leaves from Sicily, and orange peel recovered from citrus food industry waste.
• Bananatex: bio-based alternative leather derived from the Abacà banana plant
• Piñatex: bio-based alternative leather derived from the fiber of pineapple leaves
• Mylo: bio-based alternative leather derived from mycelium compound, the root-like underground system of fungi.
• Vegea: bio-based alternative leather derived from grape skins
• AppleSkin: bio-based alternative to leather derived from apple peels
• Desserto: bio-based alternative leather derived from cactus

Supply Chain

Know your Supply Chain. Having a short and local supply chain helps you to supervise its traceability and ensure good practices of safety, sustainability, and social ethics.

Certifications

Certifications: the final consumer is slowly but steadily building his/her culture about sustainable consumption. Certifications are useful guides. Choose the best ones for your product carefully, and if necessary rely on consultancy agencies experienced in the sector who can help you define the best ones for your brand. Here are some of the most popular.

COTTON
• GOTS
• BCI

WOOL
• RWS Responsible Wool Standard for the protection and safety of animals (Mulesing free) and respect for the territory.
• RMS Responsible Mohair Standard: for the protection and safety of animals and respect for the territory.
• RAS Responsible Alpaca Standard: for the protection and safety of animals and respect for the territory.

FEATHERS
• RDS Responsible Down Standard: for the protection and safety of animals.

LEATHER
• PETA People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals is the non-profit organization for the protection of animal rights.

MAN MADE MATERIALS
• Blusign: certification for a low impact on the environment during the processing of artificial and synthetic materials.
• Oeko-Tex: certification that allows companies to demonstrate their transparency of processes throughout the supply chain.
• Cradle to Cradle: is the global standard for safe, circular and responsibly manufactured products.

Chemicals and Toxicity
• Textile and Health: Association that deals with the eco-toxicology of products in the fashion sector.
• ZDHC Zero Discard Hazardous Chemicals. Program consisting of various industry stakeholders to eliminate products that are dangerous for the environment and people.

Dyeing Processes

The dyeing processes of fibers, textiles, or finished garments can have a massive impact on the environment and on the safety of workers. Choose dyes methods that are plant-based or obtained from new technologies, such as those using hydrogen peroxide, ozone, and bacteria. These choices are also important for the safety of the final consumer. The skin is the largest organ of our body and exposing it to prolonged contact with toxic and irritating products puts us at risk of experiencing dermatological problems.

Fastenings

Fastenings: the zips available on the market are of various qualities. Better to choose mono-material ones and if possible with the highest possible percentage of recycled polyester. There are leading producers in the international market that offer options that meet high standards of recyclability. It must always be kept in mind that at the end of a product’s life cycle, all components and accessories must be removed to allow the product to be recycled, recovered, and put back in the loop.

Metal Accessories and Embellishments

Metal Accessories and Embellishments: when choosing metal accessories to enrich your creations make sure you choose those that have not been treated with heavy metals such as Chromium 6. There are options with a lower percentage of toxicity such as Chromium 3. Also always choose nickel-free materials.

Sustainable Development Goals

To define the priority goals for your company rely on the SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals) created by the UN in 2015, they are an internationally recognized guide.

Story-Telling

Build a genuine Story-Telling that helps you build a strong reputation and consequently the trust of the final consumer. Use simple words to avoid misleading communication.

Smart Labels

Enrich your garments with Smart Labels. A simple QR Code could allow those who scan it to know some more details about the product.

Packaging

Packaging has a great environmental impact. Choose innovative materials for your products. Here are some examples:
• PaperFoam® an innovative eco-friendly and compostable material.
• Tipa: compostable packaging with the same performance as a conventional material.
• SoluBag: packaging made with an innovative material obtained from the synthesis of Calcium  Carbide and Natural Gas. It is biodegradable in 5 minutes upon contact with water.

Responsible Returns Policy

Define a Responsible Returns Policy. Giving returns the right price while shopping online, will give the chance to consumers to choose more responsibly. The impact on CO2 emissions is very high and must be controlled in the most effective way.

End of Life

Think about the End of Life of your products. Applying Circular Design principles during all the design, development, and production phases of your garments will help you manage the end of life of your product so that it can easily be reintroduced into the circle, going through fewer transforming steps (Mechanical or chemical ) as possible.